Niacinamide zinc pore serum for sebum regulation and lipid tolerance.
10.0% pharmaceutical-grade nicotinamide paired with 1.0% zinc pyrrolidone carboxylic acid to stabilize sebaceous gland output, reinforce follicular walls, and suppress redness.
Physiological Parameters
- Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
- 10.0% w/v (Low-nicotinic acid grade)
- Zinc PCA (Organic Salt)
- 1.0% w/v
- Carrier Hydrosol
- Purified Centella Asiatica leaf water
- Finished Formulation pH
- 5.8 ± 0.2
- Texture Profile
- Water-gel fluid, zero pilling
Confirmed by Portland inventory receipts.
Sebum balancing without drying the surrounding stratum corneum.
When clients present with enlarged pores and stubborn T-zone shine, conventional over-the-counter advice urges aggressive drying astringents, alcohol toners, or heavy foaming clays. This treatment creates an immediate rebound effect: stripped epidermal lipids trigger the sebaceous gland to pump out even more sebum to coat the cracked horn cells.
Our 10% Niacinamide & 1% Zinc PCA formulation interrupts this vicious cycle. Niacinamide acts as a critical precursor to NAD+/NADH coenzymes, stimulating internal ceramide synthesis while regulating follicular lipid synthesis. Zinc PCA provides organic mineral regulation of 5-alpha reductase without drying surrounding skin tissue, while centella asiatica leaf water cools inflammatory erythema.
Formulation Architecture & Mechanism
- 10.0% Purified Nicotinamide High-purity grade guaranteed under 100 parts per million of free nicotinic acid, preventing the sudden hot redness flush common to poorly synthesized commercial niacinamide serums.
- 1.0% Zinc PCA Organic zinc salt bound to pyrrolidone carboxylic acid—a primary component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). Provides targeted antimicrobial activity and reduces lipid oxidation.
- Centella Asiatica Hydrosol Replaces standard demineralized water to provide natural triterpenoid saponins that dampen inflammatory signaling pathways in stressed sebaceous follicles.
- Sodium Hyaluronate (100kDa) Delivers targeted intermediate hydration to keep follicular pore margins supple, preventing cellular clogging.
Sequential Application Protocol
Dispense 2 pumps onto clean, dry fingertips. Apply across the central T-zone, nose, and chin, then smooth outward over the cheeks.
Allow the water-gel texture to absorb completely. The formula sets with a clean, dry, non-tacky finish without polymer film formation.
In the morning, follow with our Zinc Oxide Non-Nano SPF 50 Fluid. In the evening, follow with Centella Squalane Soothing Cream Gel.
Formulation Tradeoffs & Actives Conflicts
Niacinamide operates at an optimal pH between 5.5 and 6.5. We explicitly advise clients against layering this serum at the exact same minute as raw, unbuffered L-Ascorbic Acid (pure vitamin C) formulated below pH 3.5. Layering them directly on top of each other can cause temporary complexation and minor skin prickling.
Who this is not for: Clients with severe barrier breakdown manifesting as active eczema or raw open cracks should first spend two weeks restoring basic lipid levels with our Ceramide Complex 3:1:1 Cream before introducing 10% active niacinamide.
Inquire regarding current Portland dispensary stock.
We dispense our 10% Niacinamide & 1% Zinc PCA Refining Serum in 30ml ($28 USD) and 60ml ($46 USD) frosted treatment pump bottles. Fill out this brief intake form to reserve a unit or schedule an appointment with Irina Petrova.
Sibling Formulations to Compare
For deep dehydration lines, view our Hyaluronic Acid & Provitamin B5 Serum ($34–$58 USD). For pore purification without stripping, see our French Illite & Montmorillonite Clay Mask ($24–$48 USD).